Smoke stop in Wharton

In my comings and goings along the lower Texas coast I realized there was at least one prominent barbecue joint I had missed up until now. I have since rectified that error by stopping in Wharton at Hinze's.

Although there are signs from miles away advertising Hinze's, unless you're paying attention it's very easy to blow right on past the low slung building just outside Wharton, Texas. If you do, shame on you.

As is my custom I had a two meat plate -- brisket and sausage. I had pinto beans, mac and cheese and mashed potatoes on the side. The mashed potatoes were made with onions and bacon and were heavenly. The mac and cheese was a bowlful of velveeta-y goodness. The only thing missing was the banana pudding.

The brisket was firm and moist and had a very clean smoky flavor. I knew right away it had been smoked over oak. The sausage was cut on the diagonal and while it was good and smoky, the texture left a little something to be desired.

There was nothing special about the atmosphere - linoleum floors, old wooden tables, styrofoam plates and stuffed heads on the wall - but the food was worth the stop.

The best brisket in Texas?

Earlier this week I had to take another trip down US59 to Jackson County, Texas. As luck would have it, I was on the road at lunchtime.

Two of the biggest joints down that way are Mikeska's and Prasek's which I reviewed in an earlier post ("Barbecue showdown way down South"). Today's target was Mustang Creek in Louise. I've passed by the place countless times on the way down toward South Texas but I'd never stopped there.

Folks at the Jackson County Courthouse in Edna gave the place, housed in a converted gas station (the pumps are still out front), high marks. Now it was my turn.

The lady at the register suggested I choose the buffet since I was dining in. At only 30 cents more than the two-meat plate, how could I refuse?

As standard in my tests, I chose brisket and sausage without sauce. I want to taste the smoke and the meat and you just can't do that when you drown the meat with spicy red sauce. Real barbecue should be eaten dry - just like a good steak. As my sides I chose the pinto beans, potatoes and (of course) banana pudding.

The pinto beans were, well, pinto beans. The potatoes were damn good. It was a cross of hot potato salad and mashed potatoes seasoned with butter and onions. The meat was cut thick and was firm without being dry. The rub left a peppery crust on the meat. The sausage was also cut thicker than either Prasek's or Mikeska's dares. The banana pudding was heavenly.

According to the pit boss, Cecil Sanchez, Mustang Creek smokes their brisket over oak for "at least" six hours. The smoke ring is thick and the meat is tasty. While the atmosphere has nothing on its neighbors to the north, Mustang Creek's barbecue beats both Prasek's and Mikeska's.